I bought the greatest ever fingerless gloves at what appeared to be the worlds largest open air thrift store.

Dear all,

Really though, the gloves are great. I also got some great green knee high socks, some lovely maroon socks, and some bright yellow mittens that are pretty small, but I wear then anyways, because they are sooo yellow! If you did not notice the trend in my clothing purchases, it is warmth. I am so cold here! It is like all my blood has been replaced by ice! It is not even that cold, but my once majestic curculation is failing I think! Every night before bed I jog in place for a half an hour. If I don't I can't go to sleep because my toes do not thaw out otherwise!

Anywho, life is great. Last night I had this salt/cheese/salt/rice/salt dish. It was sort of like drinking a salt solution that had as much salt dissolved in it as physically possible, and then they put more junks of salt in it, for fun. Actually, that is what it was. I don't know if I have mentioned this, but Georgians really, really dig salt. They put it in milk. I am not kidding. My host dad always tries to get me to salt stuff. He also tries to get me to drink, all the time. Oh, they also put salt in their beers, and sometimes in the wine. I have a feeling that salt is the biggest industry here. After wine I mean.

I don't drink, ever. You would think that you would need to tell people that only a few times before they realised that you actually never did consume alchohol. But it just doesn't sink in. No matter how many times I decline some wine, saying that it is against my religion, or that I won't drink it, or that tiny gremlins will pop out of my forehead if I have a drop, they still try.

It is a lot of work declining some things here. I was rushing through a market in Tbilisi one day with some friends, on the way to the metro, when this rather frightening man blocks my path. He offers me some rotten looking fruit and seems determined to make me eat it. I declined kindly, saying, "ara, madloba" (no, thank you) and yet he persisted. So after a few minutes, I looked him in the eyes and almost yelled, "Me ar minda! (I don't want it)." After this senior creepy laughed and stepped out of my way. Thank goodness. But, since I had had to raise me voice to make him move, the entire surrounding area was now staring and laughing, suprised to see that such an obviously not Georgian girl was able to stand up to that guy. I was, needless to say, frazzled, and I was more than glad to finally get onto the Metro, where I had only to worry about small gypseys trying to steal from me.

Love you all!
Katie

PS: Georgia is the best country in the whole world. I learned that important fact from a man who has never been more than a twenty minute drive from the house where he was born. Just so you know.